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class=\"dropcap\">\u003Cstrong>IL EXISTE \u003C/strong>une anecdote très appréciée, rapportée par l’une des mannequins ayant travaillé aux côtés de Gabrielle Chanel. « Elle racontait que dès l’arrivée de Mademoiselle, rue Cambon, les mannequins se hâtaient d’appliquer du rouge à lèvres pour lui faire plaisir », rapporte Nathalie Lasnet, Directrice du Studio de Création Maquillage Chanel. Pour Gabrielle Chanel, le rouge n’était pas un simple ornement frivole, mais une véritable conviction. « Le rouge avait pour elle une forte portée symbolique, poursuit Nathalie Lasnet. Elle l’associait non seulement au pouvoir et à la séduction, mais aussi, plus simplement, à la vie, à l’ardeur et à la passion. Comme elle aimait à le dire : “Le rouge c’est la couleur de la vie, du sang, j’aime le rouge.” » C’était sa dualité, son ambivalence — entre désir et innocence, fougue et douceur, passion et raison — qui rendait cette couleur si fascinante à ses yeux. C’est aussi pour cela que le rouge est si profondément ancré dans l’histoire de la Maison Chanel.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Ainsi, chez Chanel, le choix du nom d’un rouge à lèvres est traité avec la même précision que la coupe d’un tailleur en tweed. « Comme pour une œuvre d’art, dont le titre lui confère une portée symbolique, nous considérons que les noms attribués à nos teintes sont un élément déterminant du processus de création. Ils viennent clore l’histoire de la couleur », explique Nathalie Lasnet, « et parfois, ils en sont le point de départ ».\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Chez Chanel, nommer un rouge est un geste à la fois poétique et presque scientifique. Si plus de 500 rouges ont été créés en près d’un siècle, chaque nom incarne une identité aussi singulière qu’une empreinte digitale.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Pirate, ce rouge flamboyant et rebelle, évoquait l’audace et l’insolence lors de son lancement en 2001. Plus de vingt ans plus tard, lorsque Chanel dévoile la ligne 31 Le Rouge, il ne s’agit pas simplement de nouveaux rouges à lèvres, mais d’un symbole de l’élan vital de la mode. La collection fait ses débuts avec 12 teintes rechargeables, logées dans des écrins de verre facetté inspirés de l’escalier aux miroirs du 31 rue Cambon. Rouge 2.55, un grenat profond, rend hommage à la doublure du sac emblématique de Gabrielle Chanel, tandis que Rouge Fétiche célèbre ses rituels talismaniques. Chaque teinte conjugue héritage et durabilité. La ligne est rechargeable, collectionnable. Par ailleurs, Rouge Vie, best-seller de la maison lancé en 2016, « incarne l’idée de vie et de vitalité, ainsi qu’une féminité naturelle, authentique et spontanée », selon Nathalie Lasnet. Rouge Allure Ink, lancé la même année, s’adressait à une génération en quête d’intemporalité, son nom sonnant comme une promesse de sensualité et de constance. Aucune maison n’a fait de la nomenclature un instrument aussi affûté que Chanel. Pour la maison, cette couleur n’est pas seulement une palette, mais un véritable lexique de codes culturels. Chaque teinte est baptisée comme un récit miniature ; chaque nom porte sa propre mythologie. Chanel a toujours compris qu’en beauté comme en mode, nommer, c’est exercer un pouvoir. Et lorsque la nuance est rouge, ce pouvoir s’intensifie.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>« Je me demande souvent pourquoi le rouge est à ce point une couleur Chanel », confie Thomas du Pré de Saint Maur, Directeur Général des Ressources Créatives Parfums Beauté chez Chanel. « Il ne s’agit pas seulement du rouge comme code, mais du rouge comme représentation évidente d’une idée, d’une vision, d’une conviction. » Pour lui, le rouge est indissociable de l’émotion dans ce qu’elle a de plus primal. « Je pense sincèrement que Gabrielle Chanel faisait tout par amour, parce qu’elle savait qu’une vie sans amour, c’est tout perdre. Le sentiment amoureux, c’est ce moment où tout s’ouvre, où plus rien ne semble impossible, parce que votre monde, vos rêves, votre force, votre résilience, votre audace s’élargissent. Je crois qu’elle a choisi le rouge pour cette raison : parce que la sensation de cette couleur incarne ce moment d’intensification, d’approfondissement, d’expansion. C’est pourquoi je dis toujours qu’avec Chanel, il n’y a pas de petit rouge. C’est toujours grand, fort, audacieux. » Pour Gabrielle Chanel, le rouge était une signature de caractère. Une femme pouvait entrer dans une pièce et exprimer, plus que de l’excès, de la précision : une robe noire, une ligne de perles, un sillage de N°5, des lèvres rouges. Dès lors, nommer n’a jamais relevé de l’ornement. Il s’agissait d’intention.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Le premier rouge à lèvres Chanel voit le jour en 1924. Au milieu du XXe siècle, les noms des rouges évoquent déjà le glamour et un certain art de vivre : Rouge Flamboyant, Rouge Incandescent. « Dans les années 1960, on trouvait des noms de villes orientales, indiennes ou turques. C’était très ouvert sur le monde. Puis, dans les années 1980 et 1990, beaucoup de teintes reprenaient les thèmes des collections de maquillage. Les noms évoluaient donc sans cesse avec leur époque », explique Julie Deydier, Chargée de Collections Parfums Beauté au Patrimoine de Chanel — les archives de la maison, qui conservent la majorité des rouges à lèvres lancés par Chanel.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Dans les années 1960, la gamme comptait 12 teintes reflétant l’imaginaire de l’époque. Des noms comme Bombay pouvaient faire écho aux voyages comme ceux de Jackie Kennedy. Dans les années 1970, Chanel approfondit sa palette avec Pivoine, Prunelle et Feu. Les années 1980 marquent la « période bleue » — des rouges aux sous-tons froids comme Aurore, en phase avec l’élégance épurée de l’ère des \u003Cem>supermodels\u003C/em>. Viennent ensuite les années 1990, et avec elles la teinte vampirique et subversive de Rouge Noir, une couleur qui réécrit l’histoire de la beauté. Les années 2000 privilégient des tons désaturés, tandis que les années 2010 et suivantes renouent avec la luminosité à travers des rouges hautement saturés, comme Coco.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Cette évolution se reflète également dans le mandat de Lucia Pica au poste de Global Creative Makeup and Colour Designer (de 2015 à 2020), période durant laquelle elle lance Rouge Vie. « Les rouges étaient à la fois puissants et nuancés », souligne Nathalie Lasnet. « C’est à ce moment-là que nous avons révélé une nouvelle famille de teintes — nos bois de rouges, nos redwoods. Dans les années 1990, avec Dominique Moncourtois, Directeur de la Création Maquillage (de 1969 à 2007), les rouges Chanel étaient très intenses et vibrants, traduisant une vision du rouge comme couleur de conquête. »\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Le rouge à lèvres agit depuis longtemps comme un marqueur culturel, symbole tour à tour de révolution, de pouvoir ou de défiance. Dans les années 1910, les suffragettes se peignent les lèvres de rouge vif en défilant à New York et à Londres. Dans les années 1920, les flappers s’approprient le rouge comme marqueur de la libération sexuelle. Des stars du cinéma muet comme Clara Bow font des lèvres rouges l’emblème des \u003Cem>it girls\u003C/em> de l’époque, tandis que, grâce aux icônes de l’écran des années 1930 et 1940 — Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo — le rouge devient le langage même de la séduction cinématographique. Pendant la Seconde Guerre mondiale, Hollywood et la propagande se confondent : on encourage les femmes à porter des lèvres rouge vif comme geste patriotique, destiné à soutenir le moral. Certaines féministes rejettent alors le rouge à lèvres, qu’elles perçoivent comme un symbole du contrôle patriarcal et du consumérisme. Pourtant, à la fin des années 1970, il est réapproprié par les scènes punk et queer comme un emblème de résistance. Le rouge devient un signe de rébellion, de théâtralité et d’autonomie sexuelle. L’ère de l’excès des années 1980 érige le rouge à lèvres en armure face au pouvoir. Dans les années 1990, il s’inscrit dans une esthétique anti-glamour : provocant, brut et revendiquant la colère féminine. Dans les années 2010, les « lèvres rouges » deviennent un raccourci pour dire la romance, le chagrin d’amour et une féminité milléniale, un code à la fois ludique et puissant. Chacune de ces mutations confirme l’intuition de Chanel : le rouge à lèvres parle avant 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url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/qozoc0aw/abchanel2022-extralightitalic.woff\") format(\"woff\");\n  font-weight: 200;\n  font-style: italic;\n  font-display: swap;\n}\n\n@font-face {\n  font-family: \"ABChanel\";\n  src:\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/0mibdj0a/abchanel2022-light.woff2\") format(\"woff2\"),\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/ni5dg0oq/abchanel2022-light.woff\") format(\"woff\");\n  font-weight: 300;\n  font-style: normal;\n  font-display: swap;\n}\n\n@font-face {\n  font-family: \"ABChanel\";\n  src:\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/rpzc4zgb/abchanel2022-lightitalic.woff2\") format(\"woff2\"),\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/0qbpilmy/abchanel2022-lightitalic.woff\") format(\"woff\");\n  font-weight: 300;\n  font-style: italic;\n  font-display: swap;\n}\n\n@font-face {\n  font-family: \"ABChanel\";\n  src:\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/t2fddinu/abchanel2022-regular.woff2\") format(\"woff2\"),\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/4vxbvlp0/abchanel2022-regular.woff\") format(\"woff\");\n  font-weight: 400;\n  font-style: normal;\n  font-display: swap;\n}\n\n@font-face {\n  font-family: \"ABChanel\";\n  src:\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/wo4j0m0o/abchanel2022-italic.woff2\") format(\"woff2\"),\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/e0obmh2d/abchanel2022-italic.woff\") format(\"woff\");\n  font-weight: 400;\n  font-style: italic;\n  font-display: swap;\n}\n\n@font-face {\n  font-family: \"ABChanel\";\n  src:\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/exxpvu5n/abchanel2022-semibold.woff2\") format(\"woff2\"),\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/niflbmey/abchanel2022-semibold.woff\") format(\"woff\");\n  font-weight: 600;\n  font-style: normal;\n  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