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class=\"dropcap\">\u003Cstrong>TRÉS PEU \u003C/strong>de produits de beauté nous accompagnent à travers les différentes étapes de notre vie. Notre peau change. Nos goûts changent. Notre humeur change. Les tendances aussi. On peut rester fidèle à un essentiel, mais quelque chose de mieux finit toujours par apparaître.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Alors comment expliquer que le gloss traverse le temps ? Comment un produit si frivole, perdu parmi des objets autrement plus sérieux alignés sur nos coiffeuses et tassés dans nos trousses de maquillage, a-t-il réussi à se glisser dans toutes les poches, tous les sacs à main — et, à bien y penser, dans presque chaque décennie de notre existence ?\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Il arrive dès l’adolescence. Le gloss — transparent ou légèrement pailleté, au parfum de fraise ou de caramel, en tube souple ou à bille — fait partie de ces rares produits jugés à peu près appropriés pour une jeune fille (ou un jeune garçon). Un baume à lèvres sophistiqué, approuvé par les parents. Une touche à la fois discrète et grisante qui semble dire : « Ta-da, me voilà ! » Le gloss entre dans nos vies au moment où l’on s’affirme, où l’on prend conscience de son style personnel et — oserais-je dire ? — de son potentiel \u003Cem>glamour\u003C/em>.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>« C’était comme porter des bonbons, une porte d’entrée vers le maquillage — ce moment où l’on se dit : “Mon Dieu, je ne suis pas encore tout à fait adulte, mais je peux faire semblant” », raconte la maquilleuse Pati Dubroff à propos de sa découverte du gloss, à l’aube de l’adolescence. « C’était un véritable rite de passage. Le gloss me donnait l’impression d’être sur le seuil du monde dans lequel je rêvais d’entrer. »\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Contrairement aux essentiels plus évidents comme le mascara ou l’eyeliner, le gloss est un concentré de contradictions. Jeune et pourtant adulte. Soigné, tout en incarnant une désinvolture assumée. Innocent mais, sur certaines bouches, sexy. Discret ou éblouissant, minimaliste (aux reflets lumineux dans les années 1990) ou maximaliste (à l’effet givré dans les années 1980). C’est du maquillage, mais selon sa formule — hydratante, repulpante, lissante — c’est aussi du soin.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Le gloss nous suit à l’âge adulte, où, qui sait, il a peut-être encore un goût de cerise, ou bien d’une menthe plus sophistiquée et rafraîchissante. Son rôle a toutefois évolué : il est désormais le point final. Dans l’univers du maquillage, c’est la dernière touche, glissant sur le rouge à lèvres pour lui donner relief et intensité, ou sur des lèvres nues comme un voile flatteur et lumineux.\u003C/p>",[],{"rowSpan":24,"columnSpan":21,"areaGridColumns":21,"areas":682,"content":703,"settings":6},[683],{"alias":32,"rowSpan":24,"columnSpan":21,"items":684},[685],{"rowSpan":24,"columnSpan":21,"areaGridColumns":21,"areas":686,"content":700,"settings":6},[687],{"alias":37,"rowSpan":24,"columnSpan":21,"items":688},[689],{"rowSpan":24,"columnSpan":21,"areaGridColumns":21,"areas":690,"content":691,"settings":6},[],{"contentType":253,"id":692,"properties":693},"f31c8b67-74f6-4325-acce-3aa2498b0622",{"marginTop":6,"marginTopDesktop":6,"marginBottom":6,"marginBottomDesktop":6,"marginLeft":6,"marginLeftDesktop":6,"marginRight":6,"marginRightDesktop":6,"paddingTop":6,"paddingTopDesktop":6,"paddingBottom":6,"paddingBottomDesktop":6,"paddingLeft":6,"paddingLeftDesktop":6,"paddingRight":6,"paddingRightDesktop":6,"media":694,"fillMode":266,"altText":6,"importedImageCaption":6,"importedImageCredits":6,"imageCta":6,"displayType":6},{"id":695,"name":696,"mediaType":261,"url":697,"extension":263,"width":698,"height":699},"f2eddda8-cef5-4908-a72c-4eb4ce0c1995","shineon cropped print.png (2)","/media/e2llwre2/shineon-cropped-print.png",643,813,{"contentType":47,"id":701,"properties":702},"1cc7dc49-6cb7-421d-ab0d-003f3117a505",{"marginTop":6,"marginTopDesktop":6,"marginBottom":6,"marginBottomDesktop":6,"marginLeft":6,"marginLeftDesktop":6,"marginRight":6,"marginRightDesktop":6,"paddingTop":6,"paddingTopDesktop":6,"paddingBottom":6,"paddingBottomDesktop":6,"paddingLeft":6,"paddingLeftDesktop":6,"paddingRight":6,"paddingRightDesktop":6,"eventTriggers":6,"eventResponses":6,"initialState":6,"whenBecomingActive":6,"whenBecomingInactive":6,"inactiveStyle":6,"activeStyle":6,"imageRepeatPalette":6,"imageSizePalette":6,"backgroundAttachment":6,"backgroundPositionPalette":6,"backgroundColour":6,"backgroundImage":6,"scrollSnapAlign":6,"contentAreaName":536,"scrollOffset":4,"scrollLag":4,"scrollOffsetCompletionSpeed":24,"styleVariant":6,"desktopStyleVariant":6,"hideOnMobile":6,"hideOnDesktop":6,"hideForLoggedOut":6,"hideForLoggedIn":6,"stickToTheTopOfContainer":6,"doTheOppositeOnDesktop":6,"link":6,"openLoginModalWhenClicked":6,"openLoginModalToSignUp":6,"contentAreaPositionId":6},{"contentType":52,"id":704,"properties":705},"5f5124c3-d212-45d6-90f5-0a604865a5d6",{"imageRepeatPalette":6,"imageSizePalette":6,"backgroundAttachment":6,"backgroundPositionPalette":6,"backgroundColour":6,"backgroundImage":6,"eventTriggers":6,"eventResponses":6,"initialState":6,"whenBecomingActive":6,"whenBecomingInactive":6,"inactiveStyle":6,"activeStyle":6,"marginTop":6,"marginTopDesktop":6,"marginBottom":6,"marginBottomDesktop":6,"marginLeft":6,"marginLeftDesktop":6,"marginRight":6,"marginRightDesktop":6,"paddingTop":57,"paddingTopDesktop":6,"paddingBottom":56,"paddingBottomDesktop":6,"paddingLeft":6,"paddingLeftDesktop":6,"paddingRight":6,"paddingRightDesktop":6,"scrollSnapAlign":6,"contentGroupName":706,"stickToTheTopOfContainer":6,"doTheOppositeOnDesktop":6,"displayAsModalOverlay":6,"styleVariant":6,"desktopStyleVariant":6,"hideOnMobile":6,"hideOnDesktop":6,"hideForLoggedOut":6,"hideForLoggedIn":6,"primaryLayoutSettings":6,"pin":6,"extendHorizontalPinnedScrollDuration":4,"horizontalPinnedScrollSmoothness":4,"horizontalPinnedScrollStartDelay":4,"horizontalPinnedScrollEndDelay":4,"desktopLayoutSettings":6,"scrollOffset":4,"scrollLag":4,"scrollOffsetCompletionSpeed":24,"link":6,"openLoginModalWhenClicked":6,"openLoginModalToSignUp":6},"Image Container",{"rowSpan":24,"columnSpan":21,"areaGridColumns":21,"areas":708,"content":709,"settings":6},[],{"contentType":99,"id":710,"properties":711},"870f7f92-f8ed-4278-a07c-61d18b2d0fb9",{"marginTop":6,"marginTopDesktop":6,"marginBottom":6,"marginBottomDesktop":6,"marginLeft":6,"marginLeftDesktop":6,"marginRight":6,"marginRightDesktop":6,"paddingTop":6,"paddingTopDesktop":6,"paddingBottom":6,"paddingBottomDesktop":6,"paddingLeft":6,"paddingLeftDesktop":6,"paddingRight":6,"paddingRightDesktop":6,"text":712,"importedType":6,"useImportedStyles":6},{"markup":713,"blocks":714},"\u003Cp>C’est ce vers quoi l’on se tourne quand on n’a pas envie de porter du rouge à lèvres. Quand on veut un effet maximal sans engagement. Quand on n’a pas de miroir. Quand on est en retard. Quand on veut se sentir fraîche et jolie. En vacances. Pour un rendez-vous. Quand on fait simple, mais qu’on reste chic.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>« Un luxe sans effort », c’est ainsi que le décrit Valentina Li, make up artist basée à Shanghai et membre du Cometes Collective, travaillant en étroite collaboration avec le Studio de Création Maquillage Chanel. « J’aime le geste du gloss : une brillance immédiate, en un seul passage. »\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>« Il y a une vraie facilité », acquiesce Pati Dubroff. « Et on a l’impression de faire du bien à ses lèvres. » Elle est célèbre pour ses looks de tapis rouge, notamment aux côtés de Margot Robbie, une réputation bâtie sur sa capacité presque magique à créer des maquillages qui paraissent nus, tout en restant sensuels et parfaitement adaptés aux flashes. Du glamour discret, à l’échelle mondiale. Elle choisit le gloss lorsqu’elle veut que ses clientes « ressemblent simplement à une version sublimée d’elles-mêmes ». Utilisé par touches, il peut « ouvrir » le visage, explique-t-elle, révéler l’éclat et « donner plus de vie aux lèvres ». C’est aussi un volumateur naturel. « On cherche du relief, de la dimension. Le gloss, c’est ce qui attrape la lumière. »\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Si le gloss a explosé en tant que phénomène culturel à part entière dans les années 1970 — avec le lancement aux États-Unis, en 1973, des baumes à lèvres parfumés de Bonne Bell (initialement destinés aux skieurs), puis l’obsession disco pour le brillant à haute intensité — le tout premier gloss commercial remonte en réalité au début des années 1930. À Hollywood, en noir et blanc, le rouge à lèvres mat paraissait très plat, une pommade permettait d’apporter plus de relief à l’écran. En 1938, American Vogue notait que les actrices, comme les femmes ordinaires, l’appliquaient sur leur rouge à lèvres pour donner aux lèvres « une brillance voluptueuse sans avoir à les humidifier sans cesse ». (À noter, pour les puristes, que le vrai premier gloss de l’histoire serait en réalité l’œuvre des Égyptiens de l’Antiquité, amateurs éclairés de bains de lait, de henné et de khôl, qui utilisaient des baumes à base d’huiles végétales ou de graisses animales, portés par les femmes comme par les hommes, pour protéger les lèvres du climat saharien, sec et poussiéreux.)\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Le gloss a parcouru un bout de chemin depuis 3100 av. J.-C. Mais qu’est-ce qui fait un bon gloss aujourd’hui ? Pour commencer, les meilleurs nouveaux gloss ne se collent plus aux cheveux dès que l’on met le nez dehors et que le vent se lève. Aussi étonnant que cela puisse paraître, cette contrariété universelle était au cœur des réflexions du Studio de Création Maquillage Chanel, près de Paris, où Rouge Coco Hydra Gloss — le lancement phare de ce printemps — a été minutieusement élaboré. « Avant, je n’étais pas une adepte du gloss », reconnaît Nathalie Lasnet, Directrice du Studio de Création Maquillage Chanel et à l’origine de nombreux produits qui composent votre trousse. « Je suis très fière de ce gloss. C’est un produit que l’on a envie d’appliquer et de réappliquer », dit-elle, en saisissant instinctivement un tube fin estampillé du logo iconique en double C de la marque — un échantillon de laboratoire — et en faisant glisser l’applicateur floqué sur ses lèvres.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>« Ce gloss est très différent de ce que nous faisions auparavant — plus envoûtant », poursuit-elle, observant ses lèvres fraîchement brillantes avec satisfaction. « Nous avons intensifié la brillance et créé une texture non collante, avec un effet laqué. » Elle qualifie la nouvelle formule de « soin ». L’équipe y a intégré des ingrédients exclusifs — des céramides de camélia et un complexe hydra-peptidique — pour garantir jusqu’à 24 heures d’hydratation et renforcer l’effet volumateur. « Dès l’application, il hydrate, lisse et repulpe visiblement. 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Les produits pour les lèvres qui font aussi office de soin — ces formules hybrides aux vrais bénéfices skincare — sont de plus en plus recherchés. D’autant plus avec l’âge. « J’en suis à un moment de ma vie où je privilégie les textures très hydratantes, qu’il s’agisse d’un baume teinté, d’un gloss léger ou d’une huile — quelque chose qui nourrisse réellement les lèvres », explique Pati Dubroff. Même si l’on associe souvent le gloss à quelque chose de frivole, voire cantonné à l’adolescence, les nouvelles formules luxueuses sont en réalité très flatteuses pour ce que l’on pourrait appeler une bouche plus mature. D’abord, l’hydratation et le confort. Puis l’effet repulpant, qu’il soit technologique ou simplement optique, grâce à des jeux de brillance et de reflets. Enfin, le voile de couleur transparent offre des contours plus doux, plus indulgents : pas de lignes dures, ni trop marquées. Pati Dubroff insiste toutefois sur l’importance du crayon à lèvres — appliqué de manière invisible en amont — pour bien définir les contours, le gloss étant posé uniquement au centre afin d’éviter qu’il ne file dans les commissures. « Le crayon est essentiel, car avec le temps, la zone autour des lèvres gagne en texture et on veut éviter toute migration. Il faut que le gloss reste en place », précise-t-elle.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Soudain, le gloss devient une affaire sérieuse.\u003Cbr>\u003Cbr>Valentina Li a travaillé en étroite collaboration avec le Studio de Création Maquillage Chanel pour évaluer les propositions de formules, tester les échantillons et développer la palette de teintes. « Je voulais un gloss à la couleur modulable, à la brillance miroir, avec lequel je pourrais jouer de multiples façons », explique-t-elle. Avec Nathalie Lasnet, elle a conçu une gamme de 18 teintes pensée comme une véritable garde-robe de gloss contemporaine. 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url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/qozoc0aw/abchanel2022-extralightitalic.woff\") format(\"woff\");\n  font-weight: 200;\n  font-style: italic;\n  font-display: swap;\n}\n\n@font-face {\n  font-family: \"ABChanel\";\n  src:\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/0mibdj0a/abchanel2022-light.woff2\") format(\"woff2\"),\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/ni5dg0oq/abchanel2022-light.woff\") format(\"woff\");\n  font-weight: 300;\n  font-style: normal;\n  font-display: swap;\n}\n\n@font-face {\n  font-family: \"ABChanel\";\n  src:\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/rpzc4zgb/abchanel2022-lightitalic.woff2\") format(\"woff2\"),\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/0qbpilmy/abchanel2022-lightitalic.woff\") format(\"woff\");\n  font-weight: 300;\n  font-style: italic;\n  font-display: swap;\n}\n\n@font-face {\n  font-family: \"ABChanel\";\n  src:\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/t2fddinu/abchanel2022-regular.woff2\") format(\"woff2\"),\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/4vxbvlp0/abchanel2022-regular.woff\") format(\"woff\");\n  font-weight: 400;\n  font-style: normal;\n  font-display: swap;\n}\n\n@font-face {\n  font-family: \"ABChanel\";\n  src:\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/wo4j0m0o/abchanel2022-italic.woff2\") format(\"woff2\"),\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/e0obmh2d/abchanel2022-italic.woff\") format(\"woff\");\n  font-weight: 400;\n  font-style: italic;\n  font-display: swap;\n}\n\n@font-face {\n  font-family: \"ABChanel\";\n  src:\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/exxpvu5n/abchanel2022-semibold.woff2\") format(\"woff2\"),\n    url(\"https://thelogicalchoice.azurewebsites.net/media/niflbmey/abchanel2022-semibold.woff\") format(\"woff\");\n  font-weight: 600;\n  font-style: normal;\n  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